Joanina Library in Coimbra

I’ve read the reviews, seen the pictures, and mentally prepared myself for some serious “oohs” and “ahhs.” But is it really all that?

The Joanina Library is part of a grand Baroque building complex that makes up the University of Coimbra. The architecture is classic Baroque—over-the-top, lavish, and dripping with gold and detailed carvings. When I first walked in, I was hit with an overwhelming sense of grandeur. The ceilings are adorned with intricate frescoes, and the bookshelves are filled with ancient volumes bound in leather, all perfectly arranged like props on a set. It’s the kind of place where you can almost hear the whispers of scholars from centuries past.

But here’s the thing: while the library looks like it belongs in a museum, the experience of visiting it is a bit like being dragged to one by your overly enthusiastic history teacher. The Joanina Library is stunning, sure, but it’s also about as exciting as watching paint dry. You can’t touch the books, you can’t sit down and read, you can’t even roam around by yourself. You’re stuck in a guided tour with strict rules like “no touching, no walking over the guide lines…” Yeah, okay, I get that they want to preserve the place, and some tourists can be asses, but it makes the whole place feel more like a shrine to books than an actual library.

They do, however, have an interesting ancient technique to keep termites and bugs at bay—by employing hundreds of bats. Yes, bats. And yes, it sounds like the setup for a Tim Burton movie. If only the moment they release the bats to feed on those book bugs was part of the entire guided tour experience. In my mind, there’d be this big mysterious guy in a huge black coat who suddenly opens it up, and out fly the bats like some kind of gothic exhibitionist while screaming in glory with his raspy voice and heavy accent, "Feaaast! Feaaast my chiiiild!". What? How else do you think they do it anyway?

Now, if the Joanina Library doesn’t quite live up to the hype, the rest of the University of Coimbra more than makes up for it. The entire university complex is like stepping into Hogwarts with a hint of Portuguese flair, populated by some of the smartest people on the planet. Rumor has it, these students aren’t just your average undergrads; they’re geniuses who had to claw their way through a merit-based admission process.

The university is divided into several departments, each with its own legacy of academic excellence and a reputation for being insanely selective. Whether it’s law, medicine, or the sciences, these departments are churning out some of the brightest minds in Portugal. And the best part? They all walk around in capes!! How cute! Seeing these brilliant young minds draped in capes, wandering the cobblestone streets and ancient hallways, is like being transported to Hogwarts and becoming part of a Harry Potter scene—except instead of wands, they’re holding smartphones.

Apparently, it’s part of the academic tradition in Portugal that students wear black capes as part of their academic attire. The purpose behind the cape is to promote equality in the university, but honestly, it just makes the entire campus feel like a real-life Hogwarts, which is awesome.

Beyond the library and the caped geniuses, the University of Coimbra itself is a marvel of Baroque architecture. The entire campus is perched on a hill overlooking the city, and it’s filled with buildings that range from the grand and imposing to the charmingly quaint. The Royal Palace of Alcáçova, now part of the university, is a particular highlight. This former royal residence is a stunning example of Portuguese Baroque, with its grand courtyards, sweeping staircases, and rooms that seem to echo with the footsteps of history.

As I walked through the university grounds, I felt the weight of centuries of knowledge and tradition. As usual, I let my mind wander, creating (in)appropriate scenarios about how life must have been back then. It’s like every stone and archway has a story to tell, and if you just listen closely enough, you might just hear the echoes of long-ago debates, discoveries, and yes, a few parties too (or so I thought, these are university students, after all). I must have gotten lost in my thoughts, admiring every ornate nook and cranny, when I realized I couldn’t find Nico. Knowing him, he was probably having fun taking photos here and there, and sure enough, there he was—playing impromptu photographer for a group of elderly tourists.

We stayed at the Solar Antigo Luxury Spa for the night. The hotel literally took the words "luxury" in the most literal way possible. It’s a weird mix of fancy and fabulously… tacky. It’s like they pimped up an old apartment with brick walls and a fireplace with a touch of forced-fanciness. There’s gold trim on everything—doors, mirrors, and even the red velvet carpet.

The in-room jacuzzi, though, was the star of the show. It definitely had no business being there in a small brick-walled room with decorations that were bigger than life. It’s so out of place, like everything else in the room, but somehow, it fits. I’ve never seen anything like it. It’s impressively… something.

So, was Coimbra everything we dreamed it would be? Not exactly. But sometimes, it’s the letdowns and quirks that make a trip memorable. I may not have been wowed by the Joanina Library, but I’ll never forget it—and not just because of the bats. And as for the Solar Antigo, it was perfect in its own, bizarre way. We’re not usually into luxury hotels with Renaissance flair, but Solar Antigo was something else. It’s the kind of tacky luxury that I, surprisingly, enjoyed.

All in all, Coimbra gave us a day full of stories, and really, isn’t that the point of travel? Will we re-visit Coimbra? Absolutely, yes! Coimbra isn't only about the Joanina Library and the University; there's so much more to explore. We’re definitely going back any time soon to uncover the rest of this charming city’s secrets.