After bidding farewell to the bustling beaches and lively streets of Lagos, our trip continued to our next destination: Tavira, with a few essential photo op stops along the way—because what's a road trip without a quick snap or two or ten? Ahem. My 23 Instagram followers were practically begging for new content... and who am I to disappoint?
We swung by Algar Seco, where we indulged in an amazing lunch of giant tiger shrimp while soaking in the views.
With my seafood cravings temporarily satisfied, it was time to head to Tavira, the ultimate slow-living destination.
Tavira: The Ultimate Slow Living Destination
Tavira is a charming, sun-soaked town where time seems to slow down, and life is all about the simple pleasures—like savoring fresh seafood, strolling through cobblestone streets, and taking leisurely beachside naps. It’s the kind of place that made me seriously consider fast-forwarding to my retirement years.
This town is the epitome of slow living. With its whitewashed buildings, quaint squares, and a river that lazily winds through its heart, Tavira feels like the kind of place where stress goes to die.
We stayed right downtown at the Alegria BnB, one of the best lodging experiences we had in Portugal. Strategically situated, very clean, quiet, with a modern kitchen and bathroom, and the cute boho-chic style room we got was the cherry on top for me. Seriously, you can't get a better situated place than that- it was easy to walk to local restaurants, sights and the beach. A nearby free parking and a small supermarket next door made everything super convenient. I couldn’t help but imagine what life would be like if we just...stayed. Maybe we should trade in our fast-paced city life for a little house with a terra-cotta roof, spend our days sipping espresso at a café, and become best friends with the local fishmonger. I’m not saying I’m ready to move here tomorrow, but if Nico drops the cue word, I’ll be on my way with a suitcase.
Alas, we are at least two decades away from retirement age. But Tavira gave me a glimpse of how I want my retirement to look, which gives me the boost to work and save—or buy more lottery tickets!
Praia do Barril
No visit to Tavira would be complete without a trip to Barril Beach, a stretch of golden sand that’s not just another pretty face—it’s also home to the Cemetery of Anchors, or Cemitério das Âncoras. Yes, you heard that right: an actual cemetery of old, rusted anchors. It’s one of those places that’s equal parts eerie and fascinating, like a forgotten relic of a time when fishing ruled these shores.
The anchors were once used for tuna fishing, but now they’re just hanging out (literally), slowly rusting away under the sun, and looking very photogenic in the process. As I strolled along the beach, I couldn’t help but think that if we did retire here, I’d definitely make Barril Beach my regular hangout spot. I could see myself reading a book by the beach, taking long walks on the sand, and occasionally pretending to be a deep-sea explorer. Retirement fantasies, am I right?
Santa Luzia - The Octopus Capital of Portugal
Now, let’s talk about the real reason we visited Tavira in the first place: my obsession with octopus. Don’t get me wrong, it has nothing to do with your tentacle-y imaginations—octopus is simply my favorite seafood. Specifically, Santa Luzia, the tiny fishing village that proudly wears the crown as the Octopus Capital of Portugal. And yes, it’s as glorious as it sounds.
Octopuses are highly intelligent creatures, and flavorful too—ahem. The fishermen in Santa Luzia learned to use the inquisitive nature of the octopus to trap them using simple clay jars. You see, octopuses are very curious; they naturally peek into orifices looking for food or a good spot to take a nap. These jars let them in, but they can’t slither out.
Santa Luzia is busiest in the morning when the fishermen return with their catch and in the evening when the restaurants come alive to feed hungry patrons. Meanwhile, during the day, the town is practically a ghost town. It’s small enough to explore by foot. You can follow the Ruta do Polpo, or Octopus Route, a short itinerary that takes you through the town’s main historic spots and tells the story of the octopus business that built the town.
Every restaurant in town has its own special way of preparing this eight-legged delicacy, and as someone with an unhealthy obsession with octopus, I was in heaven. The menus are practically a kilometer long, with octopus prepared in every way imaginable. We decided to try the *xarém do polvo* at Zurrata restaurant—a cornflour-based thick soup porridge with grilled octopus. It was amazing!
Tavira: The Retirement Dream I Didn’t Know I Had
We spent a few days in Tavira, and after our outings, we’d take a stroll around downtown and find ourselves sitting by the river, watching the sun dip below the horizon while eating ice cream from Muxagata Gelados—fig and almond flavor (figo e amêndoa), which is apparently the signature flavor of Tavira.
Tavira cast its spell on me, and I was already mentally planning my retirement here—complete with daily beach walks, a steady diet of octopus, and an Instagram feed filled with photos of anchors and sunsets.
Sure, retirement is still a long way off, but who says you can’t start planning early? Tavira has officially earned a spot on my “future home” list, and I can’t wait to come back—whether it’s next year or twenty years from now.
